Friday, August 28, 2020

Swing Dress

This swing dress is very easy to make yet very cute and comfy. 


To make this dress you will need 64” wide fabric.  The fabric can be knit or non-knit as long as it drapes well.  






Pattern 


You will see 3 numbers in every measurement.  The top one is Size Small or Size 4-6; next is Size M or Size 8-10; the bottom one is Size L or Size 12-14. You will use the number of your size.


We will start with the Back Piece.


1. Draw a vertical line and separate it into 3 parts according to the lengths marked.






This line will be the middle or your back piece.


2. Draw the horizontal lines.  These lines are references to shoulder, chest, waist and the bottom of the dress



3.  Now, we have the body of the back piece.  Next will be neck and shoulder.




Your will need to use a french curve ruler to draw the neckline.  If you don't have one, that's OK.  Here is a printable french curve ruler.  http://thesewingnotebook.blogspot.com/2013/02/printable-patternmaking-tools.html


4.  With the french curve ruler, we will do the next part of the pattern, the armhole.




After connecting the line from shoulder to chest, divide the line into 3 equal parts.  From the dividing points draw 2 perpendicular lines as marked to form the depth of the armhole. Finally, use your french curve ruler to connect the dots to form an armhole.


5.  This step is the easiest.  Connect the lines from chest to waist to the bottom.  The back piece is finished.






Let's continue on to Front Piece.


1.  Just like the back piece, we'll draw a vertical line, the center of the front piece.



2.  Then add the horizontal lines that are shoulder, chest, waist and bottom lines.


3.  We'll add the neckline and shoulder line.



To form a neckline, draw a reference line from shoulder to where the bottom of the neck we want.  Then, at the middle of the line draw an 1" perpendicular line to mark the depth of the neckline.  Use a french curve ruler to connect the dots to finish.  


4.  We will finish with the armhole and sides.






Just like the back piece, to form an armhole, we draw a line from shoulder to chest and divide it into 3 equal parts, then draw 2 perpendicular lines as references to the depth of the armhole.  Finish it with a french curve ruler to connect the dots. 


Sleeve


Now we have front and back pieces.  We can make the sleeve pattern.  In order to make a sleeve pattern, we will need to measure the armholes of the front and back patterns we just made.


1.  We will draw a cross with the marked measurements.




I didn't mark the measurement of the horizontal line because it's determined by the lengths of armholes.  


2.  The measurement of the front armhole will be the slope on the right.  The back armhole will be on the left.


3.  We have a rough shape of a sleeve.  Next step will be adding the the curves to form the top of a sleeve.  



We will start with dividing the front armhole lines into 1/4s.  At the end of the first quarter, we'll raise 3/4" out, and dip 5/8" in at the end of the 3rd quarter.  Use a french curve ruler to form the curves as shown in the picture.  


The back piece is a little different. From the top of the sleeve to where you want to form the outward curve is 1/4 of the front armhole.  You will raise the curve here by 3/4".  At the end of the line about 1/6 of the back armhole is where you dip in 1/4".  Just connect the dots to form a curve like the one in my picture.


The last part is the bottom of the sleeve.  The numbers of this part in the picture are my measurement.  You have to measure your own arms to get the right number for you.


Neck piece



I cut bias tape to bind the neck.  If you are using knit fabric, you can make a crew neck.


Cut


If you are going to sew with a serger,  you will leave 1/4" seam  all over except the bottoms of sleeves and the shirt.  The seam of the bottoms will be 1".


If you are using a non-knit fabric, you will need a wider seam.  I think 1/2" seam will do.  The seams of the bottom of the dress and sleeves are the same, 1".


Sewing



This is how I put the pieces together.


connect shoulder-->bind the neckline-->install sleeves-->close the sleeve and the sides-->hem the bottom and sleeves.


You might have different approaches.  As long as it gets the job done,  it's a good way to sew.


If you are using knit fabric, here is a link on how to install T-shirt neck piece.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw2XZcTtjJc



Next post, I am going to make Wide-Leg Pants patterns.





Happy sewing!




Wednesday, August 19, 2020

T-Shirt Dress

 In my last post, I showed you how to make a slim-fit T-shirt pattern.  With that pattern, we can create many different designs.  In this post, I am going to show you how to make a T-shirt dress pattern.


It’s very easy.  Let’s take out the T-shirt pattern from my last post.  https://janaesdesign.blogspot.com/2020/08/crew-neck-slim-fit-t-shirt.html


Patterns


You will see 3 numbers in every measurement.  The top one is Size Small or Size 4-6; next is Size M or Size 8-10; the bottom one is Size L or Size 12-14. You will use the number of your size.


Back


Extend the center line with the measurement indicated.  I use the measurement from the waist line down.  The reason I use waist line instead of the bottom hem is because it is easier to get a precise measurement.  You can change the length whatever you want.  I like this length.





Draw the bottom hem with the measurement provided.




Draw a line from the armhole to the bottom hem.  Then, trim the angle to right angle at the bottom hem.  It’s done!




We will do the same with the front piece.






The sleeve and neck piece are the same as the T-shirt pattern.


Cutting


The fabric I am laying out here is 62” width.  You can figure out how much fabric you will need according to the length of the dress.  Before you lay down your patterns, fold the edges to the center.



You will need to leave 1/4" seam  all over except the bottoms of sleeves and the dress.  The seam of the bottoms will be 1".


Sewing


The way to sew the dress is the same as sewing the T-shirt.  You can go back to the post for reference.


https://janaesdesign.blogspot.com/2020/08/crew-neck-slim-fit-t-shirt.html


For next project, I am going to show you how to make a swing dress.




Slim-Fit T-Shirt

 I think everyone owns a T-shirt.  T-shirts are so cheap, is it worth making one?  It is.  You can design your own T-shirt if you know how to make one.  I am going to show you have to make a crew neck slim fit T-shirt, my favorite kind.  Here are the 2 T-shirts I made with the same pattern.  There are a lot of possibilities to use this pattern.


Pattern 


Let me show you have to make the pattern.  

You will see 3 numbers in every measurement.  The top one is Size Small or Size 4-6; next is Size M or Size 8-10; the bottom one is Size L or Size 12-14. You will use the number of your size.

We will start the Back Piece.

1. Draw a vertical line and separate it into 3 parts according to the lengths marked.

This line will be the middle or your back piece.

2. Draw the horizontal lines.  These line are references to shoulder, chest, waist and the bottom of the T-shirt.

3.  Now, we have the body of the back piece.  Next will be neck and shoulder.

Your will need to use a french curve ruler to draw the neckline.  If you don't have one, that's OK.  Here is a printable french curve ruler.  http://thesewingnotebook.blogspot.com/2013/02/printable-patternmaking-tools.html

4.  With the french curve ruler, we will do the next part of the pattern, the armhole.

After connecting the line from shoulder to chest, divide the line into 3 equal parts.  From the dividing points draw 2 perpendicular lines as marked to form the depth of armhole. Finally, use your french curve ruler to connect the dots to form armhole.

5.  This step is the easiest.  Connect the lines from chest to waist to the bottom.  The back piece is finished.

In order to make a smooth connection between front and back piece, we trim the bottom of the shirt on the connecting sides into right angles.

Let's continue on to Front Piece.

1.  Just like the back piece, we'll draw a vertical line, the center of the front piece.

Front

2.  Then add the horizontal lines that are shoulder, chest, waist and bottom lines.

Front

3.  We'll add the neckline and shoulder line.

To form a neckline, draw a reference line from shoulder to where the bottom of the neck we want.  Then, at the middle of the line draw an 1" perpendicular line to mark the depth of the neckline.  Use a french curve ruler to connect the dots to finish.  

4.  We will finish with armhole and sides.


Just like the back piece, to form a armhole, we draw a line from shoulder to chest and divide it into 3 equal parts, then draw 2 perpendicular lines as references to the depth of the armhole.  Finish it with a french curve ruler to connect the dots. 

Sleeve

Now we have front and back pieces.  We can make sleeve pattern.  In order to make sleeve pattern, we will need to measure the armholes of the front and back patterns we just make.

1.  We will draw a cross, measurement as marked.

I didn't mark the horizontal line because it's determined by the lengths of armholes.  

2.  The measurement of the front armhole will be the slope on the right.  The back armhole will be on the left.

3.  We have a rough shape of a sleeve.  Next will be adding the the curves to form the top of a sleeve.  


We will start with dividing the front armhole lines into 1/4s.  At the end of the first quarter, we'll raise 3/4" out, and dip 5/8" in at the end of the 3rd quarter.  Use a french curve ruler to form the curves as shown in the picture.  

The back piece is a little different. From the top of the sleeve to where you want to form the outward curve is 1/4 of the front armhole.  You will raise the curve here by 3/4".  At the end of the line about 1/6 of the back armhole is where you dip in 1/4".  Just connect the dots to form a curve like the one in my picture.

The last part is the bottom of the sleeve.  The numbers of this part in the picture are my measurement.  You have to measure your own arms to get the right number for you.

Neck piece

Neck piece is the easiest part of the pattern.  It's just a long strip folded into halves with a 1" width.

Cut

You will leave 1/4" seam  all over except the bottoms of sleeves and the shirt.  The seam of the bottoms will be 1".

Sewing

I used a serger to sew T-shirts.  If you don't have a serger, sewing machine will do the job too.  The function I recommend is Flatlock and casing stitch (#13 and #14 in the picture).

I also use an edge stitch foot with guide.  This is really handy.  



This is how I put the pieces together.

connect shoulder-->install neckpiece-->install sleeves-->close the sides-->hem the bottom and sleeves.

You might have different approaches.  As long as it gets the job done,  it's a good way to sew.

Here are some links to help you sew.

Install neck piece

How to sew a T-shirt

Happy sewing!

In my next post, I am going to show you have to use your T-shirt pattern to make a shirt dress pattern.



Coming Soon!

Wednesday, October 19, 2016

A Black T-Shirt for Cold Days



Material:  Medium weight Jersey Knit.
Material needed:  1-1/2 yards for sizes small and medium, 2 yards for large and x-large.
This material is bought at Walmart for $5.44/yard.

Patterns:  ALL THE MEASUREMENTS ARE IN CENTIMETERS

Back

1.  Draw reference lines as shown.



2.  Connect the dots and draw more reference lines


3.  Connect all the dots.  The back piece is finished.





Front Piece and neck piece

1.  Follow the steps in making back piece


Sleeves


1.  Draw a cross according to the measurements.



high lighted line is armhole


2.  Connecting the dots and adding curves to finish sleeve pattern.


Here is the full pattern of the black T-shirt.

I found this video on how to attach a neck piece.  You might find it useful.



Happy Sewing!

I am working on putting the pattern of the wide leg pants on computer.  Stay tune for my update.